Towing checklist

Do this before you sign anything. These checks take 20 minutes and prevent expensive surprises.

• Find your vehicle's actual payload from the driver's door sticker

  Look for "COMBINED WEIGHT OF OCCUPANTS AND CARGO SHOULD NEVER EXCEED ___ LBS": that number is your payload.

• Get your tow rating from the tow guide, matched to your engine, drivetrain, and axle ratio

  Manufacturer websites often show the highest-config rating. Your specific vehicle may be lower.

• Verify your vehicle has the factory tow package required for the rated capacity
• Estimate the payload budget you'll actually have: passengers + gear + hitch equipment + trailer tongue weight

  Two adults (300 lb), camping gear (150 lb), a weight-distribution hitch (100 lb), and a 700 lb tongue leaves only 350 lb on a 1,500 lb payload.

• Use the trailer's GVWR (not the dry weight) as the loaded weight in your calculations
• Confirm the estimated tongue weight (roughly 10–15% of GVWR) fits within your payload budget
• Confirm the estimated tongue weight is within your hitch class's maximum rating
• Decide whether you need a weight-distribution hitch before or at purchase

  A WDH is typically recommended when tongue weight exceeds 500 lb. The hardware weighs 80–150 lb and counts against payload.

One-time setup steps before you hit the road with a new rig.

• Read the towing section in your vehicle's owner's manual
• Read your trailer's owner's manual, especially the loading and hitching sections
• Weigh the loaded rig on a certified public scale before your first real trip

  Public CAT scales at many truck stops charge around $15. Weigh front axle, rear axle, and trailer separately if possible.

• Practice backing up and turning in an empty parking lot

  A backing mistake in a tight campsite is how hitch balls and bumpers get damaged. 30 minutes of practice prevents this.

• Confirm all trailer lights work: brake lights, turn signals, running lights
• Test the trailer brakes if the trailer has electric brakes (use the manual override on the controller)
• Learn how to manually override trailer sway if your vehicle has trailer sway control

Know these numbers before every trip. Write them down and keep them with your tow guide.

• Max conventional tow rating: from the tow guide, matched to your actual axle ratio
• Payload capacity: from the driver's door sticker, not a spec sheet or website

  Payload on the door sticker is unique to your built vehicle. Manufacturer websites show configuration maximums, not your actual number.

• GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating): maximum combined weight of your loaded vehicle plus loaded trailer
• Max tongue weight / hitch weight rating
• Hitch class and receiver size (usually 1-1/4", 2", or 2-1/2")
• GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating): the maximum allowable weight of your loaded vehicle

Find these on the compliance sticker inside the trailer entry door or on the A-frame.

• GVWR: the maximum allowable loaded weight of the trailer (cargo, water, propane, and all)
• UVW or dry weight: the factory-empty starting point before you add anything
• Published hitch weight / tongue weight: the manufacturer's listed value at UVW
• Axle ratings (GAWR for each axle): on the compliance sticker
• Tire load rating and recommended inflation: on the trailer sidewall or compliance sticker
• Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC): GVWR minus UVW; confirms how much you can add

Payload is the most commonly exceeded limit. Do this math before every trip when your passenger or cargo load changes.

• Start with your payload number from the driver's door sticker
• Subtract combined weight of all passengers (a common estimate is 150–200 lb per person)
• Subtract all cargo in the vehicle: tools, clothes, food, drinks, gear in the cab
• Subtract the weight of your hitch, ball mount, and weight-distribution hardware

  A Class V receiver hitch plus WDH bars commonly weighs 80–150 lb.

• Subtract the trailer's tongue weight (roughly 10–15% of the loaded trailer weight)
• Confirm the result is positive (if not, reduce load before towing)
• Verify the trailer's actual tongue weight with a tongue weight scale if you have one

• Confirm your hitch receiver is rated for the trailer's tongue weight
• Confirm the ball mount is rated for the tongue weight
• Verify ball size matches the trailer coupler: 1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16"
• Torque the ball to spec (typically 300+ ft-lb for a 2" or 2-5/16" ball)
• Confirm the coupler latches fully and the locking pin or clip is in place
• Attach safety chains crossed under the coupler in an X pattern

  If the trailer disconnects, the chains catch the coupler before it hits the road.

• Connect the 7-pin or 4-pin electrical connector
• Verify all lights work: brake, turn signals, running lights, reverse if equipped
• Attach the breakaway cable to the vehicle if the trailer has electric brakes

  The breakaway cable activates the trailer brakes if the trailer detaches from the vehicle.

A weight-distribution hitch (WDH) is typically recommended when tongue weight exceeds 500 lb. When in doubt, consult your hitch manufacturer's instructions.

• Verify the WDH head unit is rated for your tongue weight
• Measure the front and rear axle heights before attaching the bars

  Record these as your baseline. After setup, front lift should be minimal and rear sag mostly restored.

• Set trailer level using the head unit's rise adjustment
• Engage the spring bars and confirm tension is even on both sides
• Check that front axle height after setup is within ~1/2" of the pre-hitch measurement
• Confirm anti-sway is engaged or a separate sway control bar is attached
• Re-check axle heights after the first 50 miles if this is a new setup

Most states require trailer brakes on trailers above 1,500–3,000 lb GVWR (varies by state). Check your state's requirements before towing.

• Confirm whether your trailer has electric or electric-over-hydraulic brakes
• Verify a properly rated brake controller is installed in the tow vehicle
• Set the gain on the controller and test at 20–25 mph in an empty area

  With correct gain, the trailer brakes should engage firmly without wheel lockup.

• Test the manual override to confirm it activates trailer brakes only
• Confirm the breakaway switch cable is connected and the switch pulls out freely
• Check brake controller connector wiring is secure and not chafing

Check tires cold, before driving more than a mile. Pressure rises 4–8 psi when hot.

• Inflate tow vehicle tires to the pressure on the driver's door sticker, not the tire sidewall max

  The door sticker specifies the correct pressure for your vehicle's load. The sidewall shows the maximum the tire can hold.

• Inflate trailer tires to the pressure on the trailer sticker or sidewall specification

  Trailer tires often run at max sidewall pressure because they carry a fixed heavy load.

• Inspect all tires for sidewall cracking, bulges, exposed cords, or uneven wear
• Check trailer tire age: look for the DOT code on the sidewall

  Trailer tires are generally recommended for replacement after 5–7 years regardless of tread depth. The last 4 digits of the DOT code show week and year (e.g., 2419 = 24th week of 2019).

• Check lug nut torque on trailer wheels, especially on a new or recently serviced trailer

How you load the trailer affects tongue weight, handling, and tire wear. Loading position matters as much as total weight.

• Place heavier items low in the trailer, close to the floor
• Load roughly 60% of cargo weight forward of the trailer axle(s), 40% behind

  Too much weight behind the axle reduces tongue weight and can cause sway.

• Secure all items with straps or netting so they cannot shift during braking or cornering
• Check that nothing in storage bays shifts during a test stop before departure
• Verify tongue weight hasn't shifted significantly after loading

  Use a tongue weight scale if available. A noticeable change in vehicle squat indicates tongue weight has changed.

• Close all roof vents, windows, and roof hatches before driving
• Retract all slides fully before moving
• Confirm all stabilizer jacks and landing gear are fully retracted

Water is the heaviest surprise in trailer loading. 100 gallons of fresh water weighs 834 lb.

• Decide whether to travel with water: a full 40-gallon tank adds 334 lb

  For short trips to campgrounds with hookups, consider arriving empty and filling on site.

• Never travel with gray or black tanks near full

  Full tanks shift weight rearward, reducing tongue weight and increasing sway risk.

• Confirm all tank dump valves are fully closed before moving
• Turn off the water pump before moving
• Close all low-point drain valves
• Account for water weight in your payload and tongue weight calculations

  If traveling with water, add actual water weight to your loaded trailer weight estimate.

Actual scale weights are the only way to confirm you're within limits. Published specs are estimates. Your real rig is what matters.

• Weigh the tow vehicle alone (unloaded, no trailer) to establish a baseline
• Weigh the tow vehicle loaded for travel (passengers, gear) before hitching the trailer
• Weigh the combined rig (truck + trailer, fully loaded) at a certified scale
• Record front axle and rear axle weights separately if the scale allows

  Individual axle weights confirm neither axle is over its GAWR rating.

• Calculate tongue weight: rear axle with trailer − rear axle without trailer

  This gives the actual tongue weight pressing on your hitch.

• Weigh the trailer alone on the scale if possible
• Confirm all weights are below: tow rating, payload, GCWR, trailer GVWR, and each axle's GAWR

• Verify your actual axle ratio: it's on the door sticker and determines your rated tow capacity

  Trucks with a 3.73 axle ratio often tow significantly more than the same truck with a 3.31. Always use the spec row that matches your ratio.

• Confirm you have the correct factory tow package that enables your rated capacity

  The tow package typically includes: upgraded hitch receiver, trailer sway control, engine oil cooler, and sometimes transmission cooler.

• If you have a one-ton truck: confirm whether it is SRW (single rear wheel) or DRW (dually)

  DRW trucks have higher payload ratings, sometimes by 1,000–2,000 lb. The tow guide has separate rows for each.

• After long mountain grades or extended towing: allow the transmission and exhaust brake (if equipped) to cool before shutting down
• For turbodiesel trucks: follow the manufacturer's guidance on idle-down time after extended heavy towing
• Check brake controller output matches the trailer brake requirements (not all controller settings work with all trailers)

• Confirm your tow rating is for your specific trim and drivetrain, not the highest trim's advertised figure

  SUV tow ratings vary widely by engine and trim. A base-trim crossover and a properly equipped full-size SUV can differ by 4,000+ lb.

• Check payload closely: many SUVs have lower payload than trucks with similar tow ratings

  A vehicle with a 7,700 lb tow rating may only have a 1,200–1,500 lb payload. Tongue weight from a heavy trailer quickly consumes it.

• Verify whether the manufacturer requires 4WD or AWD mode while towing (consult the owner's manual)
• Confirm the transmission has adequate cooling for extended towing (the factory tow package typically includes this)
• Verify your side mirrors provide adequate visibility past the trailer: many SUV owners need towing mirror extensions
• If your SUV has air suspension: understand how it behaves under tongue weight load and whether leveling is automatic